The train to Monte Brè rides at nine. We arrive early enough—and realize that we can only take our bikes on the second section of the train. So we pedal up the first part ourselves and treat ourselves to an unexpected warm-up to get in the mood.
Once at the top, we are greeted not only by the view of the sparkling Lake Lugano and a bright blue sky, but also by a rough trail start that shows no mercy. Welcome to Ticino, welcome to Route 66 – an (e)mountain bike adventure that unfolds between high alpine feeling and Mediterranean lightness. I'm on the road with my colleague Regina. She's an absolute ace when it comes to downhill riding – experienced in bike parks, confident on fast lines. I, on the other hand, love technical uphills and that feeling of flow when a blocked climbing trail suddenly runs smoothly. We complement each other perfectly. Our goal? To escape everyday life and dive into adventure in the unmistakable southern holiday flair that characterizes Ticino. We have our e-bikes with the Performance Line CX from Bosch and, as it turns out, we are very happy about that.After the first trail shaker, we wind our way through chestnut forests, rolling comfortably on gravel and asphalt. At lunchtime, we recharge our batteries in a grotto and also give the batteries their first charge. Our golden rule: charge early enough so that the fun remains high and we don't run out of battery. After the lunch break, we set off again with 80 percent battery power towards Capanna del Pairolo, where coffee and cake await us. While we fill up on caffeine, our bikes also enjoy another quick charge. The charging station is ready in front of the hut, and it would be negligent not to take advantage of the offer.
Perhaps we are also driven by the knowledge that from now on, things will get really spectacular. First, a crisp uphill trail awaits us, followed by an endless high-altitude trail, a picture-perfect single trail that hugs the contour line. We stop briefly to enjoy the magnificent view. The high-altitude trail only rises and falls slightly, but it constantly surprises us with tight curves and blocked sections that demand our full attention. The last hours of the day are magical. The light softens, the atmosphere becomes more golden, and the sunset is epic. After climbing around 1,800 meters – much of it on trails – we arrive at Capanna Monte Bar at 8 p.m., pretty exhausted but happy.
Sunshine and trails for breakfast
The long traverse down to Rivera brings smiles to our faces. First because of the great view of the lake, then because of the crisp single trail. We conquer 1,400 units of elevation loss, which we earned the hard way the day before, and enjoy every unit of elevation loss. But there is still a lot of work to be done today, because Monte Tamaro, a real classic, is on the agenda. But before we tackle the long ascent, we fortify ourselves at the Grotto al Ceneri Monte.
Then we're off: 1,300 meters of elevation gain, first on asphalt, then on gravel. The weather is closing in – and just as we arrive at the Capanna Monte Tamaro, the end of the world begins. Rain is pouring down. Fortunately, it's all the more cozy inside. The hut warden cooks himself, using ingredients from friends – cheese from the neighbor, sausage from the hunter. A platter to welcome us, followed by a warm meal. Almost all women today – except for our photographer. Incidentally, we can also ride a gondola to Monte Tamaro, which opens up new possibilities for the tour.
The last day begins with a bang: the trail entrance directly from the hut is high alpine, exposed, and technically demanding. After that, one scenic highlight follows another. From rocks and scree to pine forests with roots, through beech forests and chestnut forests – and even palm trees at the end. It feels like a ride through all of Switzerland's climate zones. From high alpine to Mediterranean – Ticino shows itself from its best side. Today's stage to Ponte Tresa is the longest of the three days at 54 kilometers, but the easiest in terms of elevation gain. However, the many trails require a lot of concentration. When we arrive in Ponte Tresa, we are pretty exhausted. The train back is an easy option. But we still have energy left – so we roll back to Lugano on the bike path. To finish off, we treat ourselves to the first – and well-deserved – gelato of the tour. We look back on three days full of varied trails, spectacular scenery, encounters, and laughter. In both huts, we had exciting conversations, mostly with hikers. And once again, it's clear that mutual respect makes for the best kind of coexistence. A high five at the end – and the resolution to do it again soon.
