I can't move a toe, my back is tense and my forearms ache. On this balmy summer evening, I hang motionless in an armchair on the veranda in Fiesch and enjoy the last light of day. A sense of complete contentment flows through me in this total exhaustion. Exhaustion is a desirable state for me.

The GPS watch reflects today: it records a five-digit descent value. We descended over 10,000 Elevation loss, all on single trails and none of them twice. This is the character of the Bahnentour, whose three routes in Graubünden are joined by a new variant in the Aletsch region. I have this newbie in my calves. We climbed into one of the many gondolas between Fiescheralp and Riederalp ten times and descended just as many trails. The longest with almost 1900 Elevation loss in one go. In total, we racked up almost 90 trail kilometers. And all in one day. The Bahnentour is undeniably a borderline experience. And that's precisely its secret: recovery through exertion.

Humans have always explored their limits; it's practically a constant in the history of mankind. The Phoenicians explored the Mediterranean in ancient times, Columbus crossed the Atlantic at the dawn of the modern era and the Americans landed on the moon in 1969. The motivation of us mountain bikers is essentially the same, just on a much smaller scale: How many trail descents can we manage in a day? Where are our limits?"

These kinds of challenges are how some people prefer to spend their free time. Recreation and personal satisfaction are not sought through dolce far niente, but through challenges and adventures. We are not alone in this approach: Mountaineers test their limits on the eight-thousand-metre peaks of the Himalayas, others take part in marathons through large cities or hike for days around Mont Blanc. The challenge is the new recovery. There is now a technical term for this: challenge tourism. The rail tours are a symbol of this

The luck of the brave

We set off on our adventure at seven in the morning. This is what sets the Bahnentour Aletsch apart from its counterparts in Bünderland. Here, the gondola lifts function as a feeder to the car-free villages of Riederalp, Bettmeralp and Fiescheralp. Their daily operating times are correspondingly extended. An early start including an extension into the evening hours is possible here. This makes the Aletsch version much more relaxed than its Bahnentour counterparts because there is simply more time available. 

At seven in the morning, however, we are by far the only mountain bikers; the hikers are also in bed at this time of day. The sun is still low on the cold start to the first descent just above Lake Märjelen. The dull light transforms the glaciated scenery into a kind of magical world. We realize that the early morning hours are actually the most beautiful of the day. These impressions are the luck of the brave or the Bahnentour early risers.

Not much different than usual

When we stop off at the bakery in Fiesch two descents later, others are just getting bread rolls for breakfast. The head start in the day's program somehow feels good. In the meantime, however, we have also gained a first impression of the character of the route: steep and rough. The Bahnentour Aletsch is not for comfortable flow bikers, the tour is tough on the kidneys and calves. And it will show: Many trails have been discreetly but visibly prepared for mountain bikers. The odd bend is now easy to roll along, the rideable line is suddenly clearly recognizable on a rocky section; but many root carpets or steep sections have remained. It's clear to us: it's going to be a sporting challenge to get to the end of the route.

At lunchtime, we reach the Bettmerhorn with its fascinating view of the Aletsch Glacier. We circle over the rocky trail on the mountain ridge and stop again and again to take in the unique scenery. This is where the other characteristic of Bahnentours becomes apparent: you're not on an uncompromising depth meter rush. The aim is to get the most out of the day, but under normal conditions. And this includes taking the time to enjoy the scenic attractions. Or the short chats with the hikers. Nothing different than usual. Only the extended lunch break falls victim to the ambitious schedule.

At 3 p.m., 6600 Elevation loss are in the bag, with three long descents still to come. We dare to make an initial comparison with the other Bahnentours. The Aletsch version is tougher than the one in the Upper Engadin, for example. The demanding and rooty trails take their toll on the body. At the same time, the Valais Bahnentour is less stressful than the original route in Davos. This is due to the numerous aerial tramways. In Davos, the timetable of the aerial cableways and funiculars determines whether the route works out. If you miss a half-hourly ride, you're out of the running. This is more relaxed in the Aletsch region with the permanent operation of the cable cars. 

It is also striking that there are hardly any hikers on the trails in the Aletsch region, even though the region is considered one of the most popular excursion destinations in Switzerland. This is due to the fact that pedestrians are primarily on the mountain ridge above the tree line, while mountain bikers like us descend through the forests to the valley floor.

Happiness in the challenge

As we finally dive into the last of the ten descents on the Riederalp at half past five in the evening, a kind of euphoric relief flows through the bloodstream. If we don't crash or suffer a serious defect in the last few meters, then we've made it. The biggest challenge now is fatigue. We've been on the road for over ten hours and the little driving mistakes are piling up. Now we have to stay focused and certainly not make any reckless maneuvers. At the same time, this tiredness puts us in a trance-like state.

Finally, we roll into Mörel station unscathed and look at the GPS clock: 10,694 Elevation loss! We grin like little schoolboys. It's fascinating how an abstract number can trigger a surge of happiness. Inside us is the deep satisfaction of having completed the whole tour, of having pushed the day and the region to the limit. 

This total exhaustion is our form of recovery. I'll be back in the office tomorrow, my body still sore and my muscles aching. But in my head I'll be more motivated and fresher than ever before. The happiness in the challenge, it's the secret of the Bahnentour.
 

Details of the Bahnentour Aletsch

The Aletsch Arena has a unique offer with the feeder lifts to the high plateau of Fiescher-, Bettmer- and Riederalp as well as three other mountain railroads with bike transport. The Bahnentour is a combination of these mountain railroads, covering over 10,000 Elevation loss. The route in the Aletsch region complements the existing Bahnentours in Davos, Lenzerheide and the Upper Engadine. 

• Route: 87 km, 10,230 tm, 690 hm
• Starting point: Fiesch or Riederalp
• E-mountain bike: suitable for e-mountain bikes
• Bike technique requirements: S4
• Endurance requirements: S4
• Best time of year: July - October
• GPX track : bahnentour.bike